Notes from Abroad
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A few weeks ago, I searched for "best things to do in Chiang Mai." Google's AI Overview gave me a bulleted list before I clicked a single link. Temples, night markets, cooking classes; all summarized in 150 words. I got what I needed without visiting a single blog. As a travel writer, that should terrify me.
Last week, I was researching the Caspian Sea for a WorldAtlas article. It was fun to write but I've never been there. Travel makes me want to research, and research makes me want to travel. My love for one drives my love for the other, but they're separate passions. I can write about a place I've never visited because I know how to learn it deeply enough to explain it. I can also write about a place I know intimately because I've stood in its markets and eaten its street food.
The night market in Luang Prabang opens at 5pm, and by 5:15 the main street is a river of backpackers. Twenty-year-olds in elephant pants haggling over hemp bracelets. Retired Europeans in linen shirts examining silk scarves. I stood there with my wife, expecting the usual tourist trap, the facade that hides the real city behind it. That's when I noticed the embroidery. I bought one not because I needed a souvenir, but because I finally understood what I was looking at: economic survival and cultural continuity in the same gesture. That was the first part of what I now call the Luang Prabang Test.
I recently took a weekend trip from Shanghai to Wuxi. Bullet train, two nights. Me, my wife, two friends, and our two-year-old son. We planned nothing. Why? Because every previous trip with a toddler taught me that plans are just suggestions written in pencil on wet paper.
I’ve held driver’s licenses in the United States, Thailand, and Germany. I’ve driven on highways and back roads in twelve countries across four continents. Every time I get behind the wheel in a new place, I learn the same lesson all over again. The rules are written down, but the real education comes from what no one tells you.
At Cookly, I edited booking pages for cooking classes and food tours all over the world. A teacher in Bali would fill out a questionnaire about their class, and I would turn their answers into a polished booking page. A lot of the grammar needed work, but the voice was always there from the beginning. My job was to clear the path, not to build a new road.
Thai sellers have a wonderful phrase for tourists who are comparing products. It’s the most honest marketing I’ve ever heard, and most brands could learn something from a street seller in Bangkok.
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Kurt Vonnegut's Asterisk on My Hand
I have a tattoo on my hand. It’s a small asterisk, the kind you might see at the bottom of a page pointing to a footnote. Most people don’t notice it. The ones who do usually ask if it is a star. I tell them it is a reminder.
Every travel article I write has an audience of thousands. Every entry in my son's travel journal has an audience of one. The difference between those two acts has changed how I think about both.